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t's been nearly a year since the
Gucci Group and you-know-who went their
separate ways. The fashion world was well aware that the label could and
would carry on even without their glamour-boy poster child, and it's not the least bit surprising that in Tom Ford's wake
the bigwigs have been somewhat more modest in debuting the
Ford's successors.
When Ford held the reigns at Gucci, the images of
the designer and the label were one in the same. Debonair and
charismatic, Ford was a walking, talking symbol of his product. It's
undeniable that this was what made him so valuable to Gucci, but towards
the end, it was also what made him a liability. So it seems this time
around, the suits are looking to replace the creative genius, not the
ego.
Enter stage right, (tip-toeing quietly onto the
catwalk, of course) a new team of Gucci designers who are, dare I say, a
little more discreet than their mentor. Stefano Pilati, Ford's former
second-in-command is now heading up YSL Rive Gauche, Scottish designer
John Ray has taken over the Gucci menswear division, Frida Giannini, who
joined Gucci in 2002, has assumed the position of creative director of
accessories, and the designer of the hour, Alessandra Facchinetti has
taken full responsibility for Gucci's womenswear line and will be the
one accountable for setting the mood for the next chapter in the fashion
house's history.
Facchinetti at 32 has a young, media-friendly
look offset by her
dark, rock-n-roll chic style. To date, she has kept a low profile, but while some say that it's because she's a very private
person, others maintain it's the execs that don't want another megawatt
fashion designer on their hands.
Regardless of the rumors, one thing is
for sure - Facchinetti is definitely up for the challenge. She says,
"Gucci is the epitome of luxurious modern glamour.
There are few fashion houses with a vision as powerful, so it's a
huge challenge, and an honor, to take responsibility for it. I've always
understood the Gucci woman intuitively - as a designer, I speak her
language. I am feeling confident and very excited about where I will
take her next."
According to the critics, that next place isn't very
far from where she started. True, Facchinetti worked under Ford for four
years before being appointed to her new position, but many say her first
collection followed Ford's formula too closely and left many wishing she
would've veered from the familiar path ever so slightly and established
a look completely her
own. Notably there were small variations, but for the most part she
stayed true to the signature style. "It was important for me to show the
people that I can keep certain elements and go on," Facchinetti said.
"If there is something to change, it's because fashion is changing and
it's a part of the process."
In her first collection, stick thin models paraded
elaborately detailed, fringed, and sari-inspired skirts dripping with
Indian flavor down the Gucci runway. There were silver-studded crocodile
and ostrich-skin jackets, silky cigarette pants, corseted and draped
dresses all revealing plenty of skin, especially across open backs.
Facchinetti drew inspiration for the collection
from the 1970's look of tall Texan model Jerry Hall,
former wife
of Rolling Stone Mick Jagger. Infusing rock-n-roll into the collection
was a natural move for Facchinetti who grew up outside of Milan with her
father, Roby Facchinetti, a rock musician who sings and plays keyboard
with the '60s-era pop group Pooh. In the '80s, when he decided to record
a solo album, a then 11 year-old Alessandra sang backup. "I was really
horrible," she recalls.
But her vision for the future of the Gucci empire is
still evolving. "For a long time, the Gucci image has been very hard.
It's time to offer women the possibility to express themselves with
personalized pieces. It's not necessary to buy a uniform," she remarked.
Indeed, her collection was noticeably free of the signature GG logos,
though she did bring back some of the house's hardware on handbags and
shoes harkening back to the styles of the late '80s and early '90s.
"There will always be some icon," she adds.
While the house is now in the hands of a more
demure female designer, Gucci devotees can rest assured that their great
love affair with the label will not soon end. As a hot-blooded Italian, Facchinetti can single-handedly guarantee Gucci will remain a
lust-worthy fashion indulgence.
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